In the Spring of 2018 my Dad and I rattled down Township road for the first time; a tunnel of oak trees lined the dusty trail that ended at an old eroded gate. What stood behind the gate was endless oak forest and fallow south-facing fields that were bursting with native lupine, flora, and fauna. I hopped the fence, my boots landed on shale, and I stood in awe. Why nobody had already planted this property to a vineyard was beyond me. Call it luck, fate, being at the right place at the right time, or that the property was just waiting for someone crazy enough (namely, my family) to plant it. And that definitely describes the Urnesses; passionate, stubborn, and some blissful naivety. But here we stand, seven years later with dirt under our fingernails and a trickle of bottled wines made for you from behind that rusty old gate.
There aren’t many projects in life that take a better part of a decade to realize. And for me it goes back even further, to a young college kid in Idaho reading a Wine Spectator dreaming of making great wine in California. That was sixteen years ago. And for that reason my prose has reached its limit and pictures just won’t do the place justice. Rather than putting pen to paper, perhaps fermenting a setting and tasting the wine is a more intimate way to experience a special plot of land and the people that craft it. While evaluating some of the first varietal wines from Levo Vineyard, I noticed our soil shaped wines that create distinct characters. Whether it’s Grenache, Syrah or Petite Sirah, each variety is unique with an ability to tell our vineyard’s story one vintage at a time. Without further ado, let me introduce this year’s cast.
Where the journey began, Bret’s First harvest. Circa 2009 in Eagle Idaho
2023 Levo Vineyard Grenache is my muse. As the adage goes, find what you love and let it kill you.
Levo Vineyard Grenache is born from my boyish dream to make a wine that exudes femme fatale; the tempest, my muse. It’s an essence I obsessively chase only for it to blow away in the wind. This wine is delicate like summer flowers but strong and dense like the stones it grows on. When farmed well and left alone in the cellar there is no other grape that delivers such an ethereal tasting experience. This wine is a ballet performer: long, elegant, and light on its feet; tiptoing between power and elegance.
Our head trained Grenache vines lie in a secret ravine amongst a sea of hills covered in trees. In the beginning, many of these plots were considered unplantable. They had to be cleared of overgrowth and underbrush and the soils deeply ripped in order to plant vines. Years later, the vines stand confidently and we are happy we rolled the dice.
Tasting Notes: Effortless, pure, and complex. Vapors of raspberry preserves, mandarin oil, and sweet red fruits – compliments of our California sunbeams. A melange of musk, garrigue, warm mahogany, and blood orange. Long and elegant and balancing density with elegance, this wine dances effortlessly on the pallet.
Tech Notes:
Composition: 88% Grenache, 7% Graciano, 5% Petite Sirah
Blocks: GR (6, 8A, 8B, 11, 12), PS (2C), Graciano (7)
Aged: 22 months in 600 Liter Demi Muid
100% New French Oak
8% Wholecluster
Bottled Unfined, Unfiltered.
If the Grenache is the beauty, 2023 Levo Vineyard Petite Sirah is the beast.
Petite Sirah is that forbidden fruit in the Garden of Eden. It is the hedonist’s dream and a sinner’s paradise. Like a brute breaking out of chains-it is animalistic, untamed, and feral. Yet when made correctly it is a wine of pleasure and decadence.
Our Petite Sirah vines sit amongst white stone on a steep south facing slope. The shallow soils and exposure to climactic conditions force the vines to produce very small clusters and berries. This peculiarly tiny fruit yields juice that’s a dense, thick, black, viscous oil-like substance. In the vineyard and cellar Petite Sirah is always about taming the beast. Now it’s time to let the monster out of its cage.
Tasting Notes: A total blockbuster. This wine will be polarizing but nonetheless entertaining and action packed. Unending red, purple, and blue fruit explosions. A black hole of flavor without an exit. This is an illicit substance and not for the faint of heart.
Tech Notes:
Composition: 78% Petite Sirah, 20% Syrah, 2% Grenache
Blocks: PS (2C), SY (3, 5), GR (8A, 11)
Aged: 22 Months in 225 Liter Barrique
100% New French Oak
Bottled Unfined, Unfiltered
**Dazzling** SPOT Vineyard Designates
And finally, two vinous treats from over the hill at Caliza Vineyard, not more than a half-mile as the hawks fly from our family vineyard. Caliza was Levo’s introduction to the hallowed grapes of the Willow Creek District. Back in 2018 Jacob Toft convinced me to purchase a single ton of Syrah that made our eyes roll and heads spin. It became our most prized barrel (you remember the ‘18 Caliza Barrel Select!) in the cellar and inspired us to such a degree that it led us towards planting our family vineyard in this special district of Paso Robles. Today we say goodbye to an old favorite, Caliza Vineyard, as the property has been acquired by the fabulous Booker Vineyard.
The first offering is a brooding Caliza Syrah, from the 2023 vintage. This is a barrel selection of our favorite vineyard expression in the cellar. Flashy with lots of sex appeal this is a vinous treat.
Tasting Notes: Brimming with dark red fruits, cherry cola, and pine resin. The mouth is long and luxurious, finishing chalky and resolute.
Tech Notes:
Composition: 100% Syrah
Block: 6C
Aged: 22 Months in 225 Liter Barrique
100% New French Oak
Bottled Unfined, Unfiltered
The second, a textural and aromatic 2023 Caliza Viognier grown on steep, south facing hillsides littered with calcareous shale and limestone. This terroir produces very small clusters that are packed with flavor and acidity. This wine was barrel fermented and aged for 9 months in a single, once used 600L Demi-Muid and the result is everything I love about the varietal: pear skin, apricot, jasmine and honeysuckle on the nose, rich and zesty on the pallet. Ripe flavors but also great tension, acidity, and freshness. This will be a great winter white that can pair with richer dishes and cooler temps.
**Please note there is some sediment in this white wine as it went straight from the barrel to the bottle and no filters in between.
Tech Notes:
Composition: 100% Viognier
Block: 6B
Aged: 9 Months in 600 Liter Demi-Muid
100% New French Oak
Bottled Unfined, Unfiltered
And as they say, that is all she wrote folks. At least until next Spring, when we can finally introduce the remaining characters in this season’s Levo Vineyard cast. Until then, please know that you are the wind in our sails and the gas in our tank. When we are burning the midnight oil your satisfaction keeps our flame stoked. Please come have a glass with Lexi, Lizz, and I in the tasting room soon. It’s a family reunion every day the door is open. We’ve been very much enjoying seeing you all and look forward to our next visit
Until then, the adventure continues!
Bret
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